Bengalis' Best: Durga Puja

by Madhu Reddy

The autumn months in India are filled with many religious festivals colours. While the second largest Muslim population in the world celebrates Ramadan and Eid, Ganesh Chaturti embroils Maharashtra, Mysore enjoys its world famous Dushera, Gujarat is in Navratri trance and Durga Puja brings West Bengal to a complete stand still. Though respective communities observe these festivals all over India, it’s a unique experience all together to celebrate where the fervour takes over a region.

To see one such example, head to the old seat of the British Raj, Kolkata. Held over a period of ten days, Durga Puja is traditionally celebrated as returning of the married daughter, Durga, to her father’s home, Himalaya.  In a land of contradictions, Durga is worshipped as the “Stree Shakti” or women power, symbolizing energy and a stance for justice. She is the embodiment of the “Divine Mother”, who rights all wrong and is a grantor of wishes. Her ten arms and what she carries in them show her multi dimensional nature, a woman, juggling all her various roles simultaneously. They say that the clay for each idol is mixed with the earth from a courtesan’s house, symbolizing to some extent the respectability of a woman in her.

The clay and straw images sculpted to perfection are adorned with finery, accompanied by idols of her four children Ganesh, Kartikeya, Lakshmi and Sarawati are displayed all over Kolkata city in “pandals”. Pandals are temporary structures that are set up to house goddess for the ten days, some of them large and imposing, some humble. Each neighbourhood striving to the win the coveted top prizes tries to outdo with elaborate themes and spectacles. Shrouded with commercial trappings, questions about environmental impact, the rituals of this centuries old tradition still continue with a touch of modern opulence. The finale of the festivities is the immersion of Durga in river waters, only to return yet another year.

Pandal hopping is “the” thing to do; families, groups of teenagers, young and old alike make way to different neighbourhoods. Some of the famous areas to watch the festivities are Jodhpur Park, Ekdalia Park, Ballygunge, Park Circus, 23 Pally, and Madox Square to just name a few.

To catch a glimpse of a century old family puja head to Sobhabazar Raajbari.  Originally, only the zamindars held puja celebrations, today it brings communities and neighbors together.

Visit with an empty stomach for all of Kolkata’s delights will be available at the pandals.  Open-air restaurants, stalls selling kati roti’s, singadhe (as samosas are called here), and the range of Bengali sweets all can be found in one spot. Throw in some cotton candy and the fair like atmosphere is complete. But, the best of the culinary delights are the community meals organized each day and the housewives selling home made treats. Sit back with your treats and enjoy the cultured crowd of Kolkata display their talents on the community stage.

All said and done, the unparalleled puja celebrations remain at the very core of Bengal and Bengalis all over the world.  Head to Kolkata or look up your nearest Bengali association across the continents and celebrate alongside this gracious community.